The Majolica Cloister: a riot of colors and stories
As soon as you enter the famous Maiolica Cloister, you find yourself in front of a spectacle which you wouldn't expect in a cloistered convent. Many octagonal columns, covered with brightly colored majolica, welcome you with images that seem to come out of a dream: Pulcinella dancing, common women at work, fishermen with nets in their hands and musical instruments. It doesn't seem like a place for prayers only, does it?
Why such bright colors?
Looking at the bright and cheerful decorations, you might ask yourself: "But why is a cloistered convent so... colourful?". Well, the Poor Clares spent their whole lives within those walls, and having such a decorated cloister was not only a pleasure for the eyes, but also a way to feel closer to the beauty of Creation. Those colors, those pastoral images, were a small earthly paradise, a corner of serenity to reflect and find inner peace.
But who do we have to thank for all this wonder? Part of the credit goes to Queen Maria Amalia of Saxony, wife of Charles of Bourbon. She, who knew something about good taste, wanted to make the cloister a more modern (for its time) and spectacular place. Perhaps anticipating studies on the psychology of color he requested bright colors such as yellow, blue and light blue. In fact, these colors have the power to alleviate moments of melancholy and despondency that could afflict young girls forced into the grey of a cloistered convent.
In 1742, the architect Domenico Antonio Vaccaro transformed the cloister into what we see today. Vaccaro, together with the famous ceramists Donato and Giuseppe Massa, filled every corner with colours, symbols and scenes of life, transforming a space that was perhaps too cold in a masterpiece for the eyes of young Poor Clares.
Nuns in Closure: between prayers and rebellion
The life of cloistered nuns, although dedicated to prayer, was not always as austere as we would imagine. Not all of them had a genuine vocation, many of them were in fact forced by their families for reasons of social prestige, to guarantee the spiritual salvation of the family or for economic reasons, avoiding having to provide a dowry for marriage.
The stories and gossip about the Poor Clares tell of small daily rebellions who tried to lighten the monotony of seclusion.
It is said, for example, that some nuns found creative ways to get around the rules: there were those who, through the grates of the parlour, managed to hold lively conversations with friends or relatives, or those who organized real clandestine banquets with foods brought from outside. Through the grates of the convent they exchanged not only news, but also sweets and other forbidden delights!
Merchants and artisans who carried out repairs to the convent were also a means of communication with the outside when used to send secret letters.
Life in the Convent between rules and fun
The monastic archives tell of episodes that today would only make one smile: once, during a harsh winter, some Poor Clares found a way to have fun by transforming the snow-covered courtyard into an improvised sled track with used wooden buckets for washing floors.
Others enjoyed playing invented card games, as long as they maintained strict silence so as not to arouse suspicion in high school.
Scandals and Clandestine Encounters
Another archival document from the 17th century tells that some Poor Clare nuns, tired of the enclosure and the monotony, they managed to organize clandestine meetings with local nobles. Taking advantage of the cloister gardens and the limited night surveillance, these nuns temporarily escaped the rules of the convent, transforming the tranquility of the cloister into a much less "spiritual" scenario.
A particularly famous episode concerns a Poor Clare who, in love with a young Neapolitan nobleman, managed to meet him in the cloister thanks to the complicity of a concierge. When the affair was discovered, the scandal involved not only the monastery, but also the entire city community. Punishments for such incidents were severe, but those responsible often protected themselves through the connections of their powerful families.
Secret Parties
Another bizarre story concerns a real clandestine party organized by the nuns in the cloister during the Carnival. According to stories, the Poor Clares used the costumes donated by their family members and transformed the cloister into an improvised ballroom. It seems that some of them even let in masked guests to avoid being recognized. The party, obviously, was interrupted by a sudden inspection from the high school, sparking a major scandal within the convent.
The most enterprising nuns managed to achieve perfumes, jewels and forbidden foods thanks to the complicity of the artisans and suppliers who came in for maintenance work. These little luxuries often generated envy and conflict within the community.
Le Riggiole: more than just tiles
The majolica, or "riggiole" as they are called in Naples, were not just a decorative detail. Each piece told a story: idyllic landscapes, animals, scenes of daily life. In that historical period, these tiles were a real visual language, a way to chase away evil and express joy and protection.
Didn't you know? According to the beliefs of the time, the bright colors and cheerful images had the power to ward off evil spirits and the "evil eye". In short, a sort of giant amulet that protected the convent and its inhabitants.
Another curious detail, the one that makes you smile, is hidden in one of the corners of the cloister. There is a painted scene depicting a Clarissa nundistributing food to the convent cats. This majolica was not just a decorative detail, but an insight into real life in the monastery. Cats were considered precious allies to keep mice away, pets and also as personal confidants, with whom they could have "long conversations"...!
A Piece of Living History
Walking in the Majolica Cloister of Santa Chiara is like taking a journey back in time, among colours, symbols and stories.
Every detail, from the columns covered in bright majolica to the seats decorated with scenes of daily life, tells something of the past. It is impossible not to be fascinated as you walk through this peaceful corner in the heart of Naples, imagining the life of the nuns who, between prayers and silences, found a refuge for the soul in the beauty of the cloister.
A Journey to the Naples of Other Times
Visiting the Majolica Cloister today does not only mean admiring its extraordinary decorations, but also immersing yourself in the stories that make it so unique. From the colors of the riggiole to the shadows of its scandals, this place continues to tell of a living Naples, made of spirituality, art and, yes, also humanity with all its weaknesses.
The next time you pass through Naples, don't miss this jewel. Who knows, maybe you could imagine the Poor Clares smiling from their majolica seats, with a cat in their arms and discovering some "secret" still hidden among the colored columns!
